If you’re eager to explore the world of Hermes and are considering getting a Birkin or other Hermes bags, understanding the different types of leather is crucial. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the 11 most commonly used leathers for Hermes bags.
Togo Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Togo leather was first produced in 1997. It is sourced from the neck of young calves, which gives it a relatively stiff quality that helps maintain its shape. The leather undergoes an intensive drumming process, resulting in a distinctive texture with larger grains compared to some other leathers. It has a thick and sturdy feel, yet it remains soft and supple to the touch without sacrificing strength.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages of Togo leather include being less prone to scratches, easy to clean, and having a soft touch. However, it is a commonly used leather, so it may lack a sense of uniqueness. Additionally, it is slightly heavy in weight.
- Notable Bag Styles: This leather is often used in Kelly, Hac, and Birkin bags.
Barenia Faubourg Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Barenia Faubourg leather has a slightly heavier and unique leather scent compared to Togo leather. It is processed using a pure natural vegetable tanning process along with coloring techniques that don’t involve dyes. This results in the leather retaining its original light brown shade. It is well-known for its resistance to water and creases. As it is used, the leather undergoes oxidation, gradually deepening its color and developing a beautiful patina while maintaining a smooth surface and the bag’s overall shape.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The main advantage is its resistance to water and creases. However, it is not resistant to oil.
- Notable Bag Styles: It is used in Birkin, Kelly, Constance, Evelyne, and Picotin bags.
Barenia Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Barenia leather is an uncolored calf leather processed using vegetable tanning methods. When making a Birkin bag with this leather, Hermes needs to select three pieces of leather with the same grain, texture, and dyeing intensity, mostly using only the middle part, which leads to some waste. The leather is both delicate and easy to care for and gradually develops a natural sheen over time.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: It has high water resistance and can repair minor scratches and blemishes on its surface, making it resilient and long-lasting. However, it is not resistant to oil and creases.
- Notable Bag Styles: Kelly, Constance, and Evelyne bags often feature this leather.
Epsom Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Introduced in 200.swing with the above description, Epsom leather was introduced in 2004 as a replacement for Courchevel leather. It is a heat-pressed leather with a rigid, finely cross-hatched grain and an attractive sheen. It has the ability to showcase colors with exceptional vibrancy. A Hermes bag made from Epsom leather maintains its shape beautifully over time, and the embossed surface adds a waterproof element, making it resistant to showing scratches. It is also lightweight and easy to clean.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages include being scratch-resistant, maintaining its shape well, and being easy to clean. However, due to the artificial processing, it may lose the natural texture of the leather.
- Notable Bag Styles: Kelly, Constance, and Birkin bags are often made with Eps0m leather.
Swift Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Originally known as Gulliver leather, it was discontinued in 1999 and reintroduced in 2005 as Swift leather. It has a supple and soft texture with a fine natural grain and a subtle sheen. It has an excellent ability to absorb colors, making it a favorite among color enthusiasts. It is prone to scratches, but minor scratches can be easily removed with a gentle swipe of fingers.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages are that it is lighter in weight and has vibrant colors. The disadvantages are that it is prone to deformation and if it gets stained, it is difficult to repair.
- Notable Bag Styles: Roulis, Kelly, and Lindy bags often use Swift leather.
Evercolor Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Evercolor leather is a type of calfskin leather derived from young calves. It offers a balance in hardness, being softer than Epsom leather but slightly firmer than Togo leather. It is particularly suitable for vibrant and bright-colored bags due to its high color saturation. It ages gracefully, becoming softer, more supple, and developing a beautiful shine over time. However, it is prone to deformation. At first glance, it may be difficult to distinguish from Swift leather, but a closer look reveals that the grain pattern of Evercolor is more apparent.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages include being durable and abrasion-resistant. The disadvantage is that it is prone to deformation.
- Notable Bag Styles: Roulis, Lindy, and Constance bags often feature Evercolor leather.
Box Calf Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Also known as Veau Leather, Box Calf leather is the oldest leather used in Hermes handbags. It has a smooth and glossy surface that exudes elegance. Over time, it develops a stunning patina. While it is durable, it has a delicate surface that is susceptible to scuffs and scratches. These marks can be blended into the leather’s texture over time through light buffing. It should be kept away from rainy weather as water can cause blistering and leave unsightly marks.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages are that it has a beautiful glossy appearance and is relatively lightweight. The disadvantages are that it is prone to scratches and should be kept away from water.
- Notable Bag Styles: Birkin, Constance, and Kelly bags often use Box Calf leather.
Fjord Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Fjord leather is crafted from the hides of mature bulls and is highly recognized for its exceptional durability and relatively heavier weight. It has a smooth surface with large grains and a mature and refined appearance, emanating an air of elegance. It is resistant to water, enhancing its practicality and luxurious appeal.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages are that it is water-resistant and has a deep, rich appearance. The disadvantages are that it can be heavy in weight and not suitable for making large bags.
- Notable Bag Styles: Birkin, Kelly, and Jige bags often use Fjord leather.
Clemence Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Clemence leather, also known as Veau Taurillon Clemence or TC, is one of Hermes’s most popular leathers and has been a classic material since the 1.980s. It is crafted from the hides of baby bulls, giving it a soft, heavy, and matte appearance. It has a slightly slouchy and comfortable feel. Compared to Togo leather, it is smoother to the touch, has slightly larger grains, and lacks veining. It is durable, making it a reliable choice for daily use. However, it is sensitive to water and may develop blisters when wet.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages are that it is resistant to scratches and tarnishing. The disadvantages are that it is sensitive to water.
- Notable Bag Styles: Lindy, Picotin, and Evelyne bags often use Clemence leather.
Chevre de Coromandel Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Chevre de Coromandel leather is sourced from male mountain goats and has a unique resilience. It has an iridescent quality and subtle graining. Despite being lightweight and soft to the touch, it is remarkably tough. It combines luxury and practicality, making it an excellent choice for those who plan to use their Hermes bag regularly.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages are that it is impervious to scratches and blemishes and its lightweight nature ensures comfortable daily carrying. There are no significant disadvantages.
- Notable Bag Styles: Birkin and Kelly bags often use Chevre de Coromandel leather.
Doblis Suede Leather
- Production and Characteristics: Doblis Suede is a classic type of leather made from goatskin. It can be polished and repaired when it gets scratched, and the scratches tend to fade away over time. It has a smooth touch and polished surface. However, it is very sensitive to water, oil, and moisture, making it prone to mold growth and staining. As it is used more and more, it may get softer and change shape a bit, and it is difficult to keep its original color.
- Advantages and Disadvantages: The advantages are that minor scratches can naturally fade away over time. The disadvantages are that it is sensitive to water, oil, and moisture, making it prone to mold growth and staining.
- Notable Bag Styles: Birkin and Kelly bags often use Doblis Suede leather.
Comparison of Softness and Durability
- Softness: Clemence > Togo > Barenia Faubourg > Fjord > Evercolor > Swift > Chevre > Doblis Suede > Epsom > Barenia = Box Calf
- Durability: Togo = Barenia Faubourg > Clemence > Barenia > Fjord > Evercolor > Epsom = Doblis Suede > Box Calf > Chevre > Swift (Although Epsom leather may appear hard, once it is scratched, it develops visible creases that are challenging to repair.)
When choosing a Hermes leather, it’s important to consider both the pros and cons of each type as well as your personal preference for the feel of the leather. If you want your Hermes bag to last longer, Togo and Barenia Faubourg are likely good choices. And remember, even a replica Hermes bag can endure for a long time if you pick the right leather and maintain it properly. Also, don’t forget to check out the Hermes color guide to know the most popular colors and those that hold their value.